Turkey Run

Yesterday I went to Daytona for the annual Turkey Run held at the International Speedway. There were something like 3500 cars pre-registered and I probably saw a third of those at the very most. I spent the majority of the time hunting around the swap meet trying to find a new (used) exhaust manifold. However after a while one rusty piece of engine looks much like any other and the best I got was a contact for a local(ish) Mopar car part specialist who said he probably had one. He talked like he knew his stuff (well convinced me anyways) and he looked and talked like Uncle Jessie from the Dukes of Hazzard.

My new best friend??

Ended up getting a bit sunburnt too and now have a glorious redneck sun tan ie face, neck and arms being red, rest of me being white.

Still waiting on the new parts to arrive, I won the new instrument cluster and that should be here early next week. Til then not much I can do on the car so Mrs P has me decorating.

An optimist says the tank is half full

The exterior of the gas tank has been treated with Rustoleum Rust Reformer and then painted with gloss black Rustoleum paint. The inside was first blasted with a pressure washer and then using some household cleaner, water and 6 ft of metal chain I shook the hell out of that thing for as long as I could. I plugged the holes with some special gas tank repair putty too. It's still far from perfect but should all last me a bit longer.

The new sender unit has arrived and I hooked it up to the gauge (without re-installing the tank) to see if everything was working correctly. I set the armature of the sender to indicate a full tank (minimum resistance) and checked the gauge. It read 1/2 a tank. I set the armature to 1/2 tank position and the gauge read Empty. Setting the sender unit to empty (and maximum resistance) the gauge hardly moves at all and is well below the Empty marker.
I've bid on a new instrument cluster on a well know online tat bazaar.

Troubled by gas

I'm still troubled by the lack of odometer and fuel gauge and I need one or preferably both working. I swapped out the new instrument voltage regulator for some homebrew solid state electronics but all that did was stop the gauge from reading full. I took the odometer/speedo apart and found that mechanically it appears sound and works on the bench, however when reinstalled in the car the odometer still doesn't move. I've replaced the speedo cable in case that's the problem but I've yet to test it.

For the fuel gauge, I've taken the tank out and ordered a new sender unit. The original below was pretty crusty looking and the resistance across the range was all over the place and inconsistent. I'm hoping that this is what's causing my gauge to read less than empty.

The tank has seen better days and there are 3 small holes in it that i'll be plugging up. The interior of the tank has seen better days too and although it doesn't look rusty it's full of crud. Also looks like a previous owner hit something hard, as the bottom is all beat up and has been repaired with a big patch of solder. A new tank is about $200 but I'm going to see if I can get this one clean and serviceable first. 

On a positive note I managed to get the front bench seats out and using the trusted P B Blaster the tracks are now free and the seat will slide easily.

Tiring business

I drove the car to the garage on Saturday to have new tires fitted all round including the spare. The existing ones are old and cracked and although most of them have a good amount of tread on them I just don't trust them. 195/75R14 tires are a bit thin on the ground so I didn't have much to choose from but the Uniroyals they had in stock come with a lovely whitewall side.

Spent most of Saturday afternoon, T-Cutting the car and you can see the difference in the shot below. The left hand side has been T-Cut, the right hand side is yet to be done. I haven't done the sides of the car yet and also need to add a coat of polish too, but I'll do that over the coming week.

Swapped out the power steering hoses today. I decided to flush out the old fluid and replace with fresh power steering fluid. I'm guessing that they previously used ATF in the power steering as old stuff was red. It's a common enough thing to do but I decided not to. I ran a couple of quarts of fresh fluid though the system and it no longers leaks.
I also adjusted up the front drum brakes. In my haste to get driving I forgot to do it at the time, it also gave me an excuse to use my new brake adjusting tool. Boy I should have got one of these before cos it's so much easier than digging around with a screwdriver.

Rollin' in my 5.0...

It starts, it idles and it actually moves under it's own power. Today was a momentous day where Mrs P and I actually took to the open roads. But let me back track as I'm getting ahead of myself.

The carb was full of gunk and crud. The float bowl had a sort of grey sludge in it and the brass main jet was green with corrosion. I cleaned, soaked, scrubbed, blew and scraped the carb in all the holes, nooks and crannies I could find. I left the main well and economizer unit soaking in carb cleaner over night as they was a couple of bits I couldn't get to directly. The idle air mixture had been screwed virtually all the way in, the warm (curb) idle screw wasn't being used and the fast (cold) idle adjustment was too strong and being used instead of the curb idle. The wrong thickness gasket had been used to install the carb to the manifold too. Basically it was set up all wrong, which probably explains the black sooted plugs.

I reassembled the carb using a kit from Mike's Carburetors , and I can't recommend these people highly enough. Great kit that arrived super quick (even with free delivery) with good instructions made the job easy.

I took an educated guess where the 3 adjustment screws needed to be positioned, fitted the carb back on the car and turned the key. After a few cranks she fired right up and a quick adjustment of the idle screws and she was sitting pretty. I need to get an old school tacho to set things up properly as I've no idea what she's idling at.

With the car idling when warm, it was time for a drive round the block. Slipped her in gear and we slowly pulled away, and kept going and going and going until we'd gone full circle. It never missed a beat. The brakes are scarily non-existent, due to a combination of not being properly adjusted and none of them having been bedded in. I'm told that the 30 from 30 rule will sort the latter part out. That's 30 stops from 30 mph. Having made a complete circle round the block, everyone wanted a ride and we made another half dozen or so circuits without any problems at all.

Mrs P and I took the car to the grocery store and acheived the heady heights of 45 mph. We just made it home before it started to rain and it's been raining nonstop since. BLOODY TYPICAL.

Oh the high pressure power steering pipe leaks and the exhaust manifold is cracked, but it drives.

If a job's worth doing then do it twice

Turns out there was a leak from the front distribution block, however I was unable to get a spanner on it in such a position that I could tighten it so I had to remove all the other ones and start over. ! managed to tighten it on the bench and then reassembled. Rebled the brakes and touchwood there's no leaks this time.

Also turns out that my soldering technique needs a bit of work. I didn't remove the circuit boards when I soldered on the wires and when I poked the wires through the holes left by removing the pins I left too much exposed. This caused a several shorts with the case below and the dash behaved very strangley when I reconnected it all. Once I trimmed the excess wires the dash lights, indicator lights and high beam lights started working correctly.

The fuel gauge is not working at present but that could be the sender, I need to test it further.

 When I first bought the car it would start but wouldn't idle and the man I bought it off said he'd driven it on to his trailer. Once the dash was back together and the brakes finally reassembled it was time to fire up the engine. To my teeth gnashing the car failed to catch, it turned over fine but wouldn't start. I removed the spark plug and theuy were sooted up but aside from that looked in good overall condition. I cleaned them up and then checked they did indeed spark. One thing I did note was that they had been installed with the crush washer. Apparenty this isn't needed in early Slant 6 engine as it moves the spark further away from the optimum combustion point. I regapped the plugs to 0.035" as they were a little on the tight side and reinstalled them, however the car still wouldn't start.

I bought some Easy Start and squirted that down the carb, and the car did catch but stalled straight away. Time to break down the carb.... rebuild kit ordered and a couple of cans of squirty carb cleaner bought too.

Oh and my parents have been over for that past 3 weeks and my Dad has been assisting me in the garage.

Tinker, Tailor, Solder, Spy

The new brake lines have been fitted and the brakes are now back together. They have been bled and just need a final adjustment on the shoes and we're good to go. There does not appear to be any leaks, which to be honest surprises and amazes me at the same time.

The fuel and temperature gauges haven't been working when I turn the ignition on. When they both fail this is a sign that voltage regulator on the back of the instrument cluster has likely failed. This unit converts the 12V from the battery to 5V needed for the gauges and a new one is on it's way from RockAuto.com. Boy, those people have just about everything you need at the best price too, they ship it really quickly and don't rape you in delivery fees either.

After struggling for a couple of days I managed to get the instrument cluster out from the dash, the speedo drive was hooked on the wiring loom. In the process I manged to break off and lose, several of the pins from the circuit board. There are 10 pins, 5 on each side that control the various instrument and warning lights and you can't get new ones. Several internet forums suggest the following method to resolve this by soldering flying leads directly to the circuit board in place of the pins and using your own connector to replace the OEM one.

I opted for RadioShack 6 position connectors (part numbers 274-226 for the male and 274-236 for the female). I bought 5 reels of different color 18 gauge wire just to make it easier to match up to the factory wiring. using 12 inch lengths of wire, I soldered the male connector to the instrument cluster and the female to the wiring loom.

Several of the lamp holders and lamps were broken too, NAPA has the holders (part # ECH LS6501). New ones are on order along with new long life lamps.